April 26th – May 13th Carrie Ahern will perform Borrowed Prey at Dickson’s Farmstand Market in Chelsea. The work is about the relationships between humans and their food, particularly our non-vegetarian food. Ahern has experience in butchering. For the piece she will butcher a lamb. I asked the choreographer/performer a few questions about the work.
WD: How did you come to the concept for Borrowed Prey?
CA: I came to the concept for “Borrowed Prey” because I was hearing so many people talk about “sustainable food”. The more I heard people talk about it, the more it bothered me that I did not know what that phrase actually meant. I decided to explore that by researching firsthand. And I decided to focus on “sustainable food” in terms of animals we consume because I had never been a vegetarian and I wondered why. I wanted to look at all aspects of the process of animals as food from beginning to end (wild–hunting, farmed–slaughtering and butchering).
After those 3 strands of research had begun, and I was thinking about what it is like to embody an animal, I got introduced to the work of Temple Grandin by seeing her on the “Golden Globes” and by a friend who lent me her book “Thinking in Pictures”.
WD: So what is your definition of “sustainable food,” and does meat-eating have a place in it?
CA: I think ” sustainable” in terms of food has many layered meanings. Can the planet sustain our current eating habits especially with India and China eating more meat? Not likely. Most of the farms in this country are factory farms that are subsidized by the US government. So they are not even sustainable in terms of the marketplace. Small farms in this country that are not using GMO seeds and raising animals humanely ( which takes more time) struggle in a culture disconnected from
more basic ways of doing things– many question why food at the farmers markets are so much more expensive than factory farmed food. So many small farmers are barely making ends meet.
Sustainable has come to mean to me a sense of connection about the process of food and is directly connected to ethics. In terms of animals and meat it is understanding the life behind the piece of meat and how it gets to the plate. Which is recognizing that an animal had to be killed to sustain me. What was it’s life like before it was killed– and was it killed humanely? Could I kill an animal in good faith and if I couldn’t –shouldn’t I be a vegetarian?
I found through this project that I had a deep desire to eat meat. There are theories that mark a big jump in out brain development and evolution as humans to when we began eating meat. This is another level of how meat has sustained us as a race.
WD: So because of your research you’re empathizing with the animal and also thinking about your own human bodily needs. This is an intellectual as well as physical approach to the topic. How much dance is in this piece?
CA: The entire piece is a dance.
All the research–except for the Temple Grandin strand–is first hand, embodied research. The hunting, the butchering, the slaughtering. But the most essential part is going into the studio with that research in my body and seeing what comes out. Movement shows up a lot but also sound, image and language.
And the last strand that is not firsthand–one of Temple Grandin’s great gifts is being able to put herself inside the body of an animal and sense what it thinks and feels and how. An embodied knowledge.
It is a physical and intellectual approach, as well as aural and imagistic but I don’t see those things as separate.
WD: So tell me about your experiences hunting, butchering, and slaughtering.
CA: I have “mentors” for each part of the research.
I have been hunting with Dale Rodefer on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. It is a mosquito infested swampland. We hunted Sika deer–which are small deer that are part of the antelope family. I did target practice (with a rifle) before we went out. Shooting a gun for the first time was a strange feeling and challenging. It takes a great deal of skill, as did the rest of the preparation for the hunt. Most of the prep is all about not “spooking” the deer. You have to become one with the environment in order for anything to even come close enough for you to shoot. This means rubbing your boots (16 inch lace up boots because of the mud) with a salve that helps rid the leather of human scent; not using any shampoo or lotions or scents; full camo and most of all learning how to move through the woods and be as quiet and still as possible even though it is cold! But you also don’t want to get shot by other hunters which is why you wear the flurescent orange which is a color deer cannot see. You cannot wear anything blue–that color deer will recognize. And you are up before dawn as animals are most active right before sunrise and sunset. Dale and I climbed up into a 2 person tree stand in the dark and waited. And waited. Finally we saw some deer prancing around, but they were too far to shoot at. This continued through the morning with the two of us dozing in the tree stand (and always the fear of falling out of the stand) . Nothing ever came close enough, but we did see another hunter kill a deer, gut it in the field (which it makes it much lighter) and then go get a cart to drag the animal out of the swamp. This process took that hunter about an hour and a half to 2 hours. That afternoon I was alone in the tree stand, at dusk, without a weapon, my senses super attuned and I heard a thrashing about in the swamp–a doe came right up next to me. That was magical. Hunting surprised me–mostly a very meditative and sensory experience, and you are outside all day seeing every manifestation of the light shift from pre dawn to afetr dark. But then you have to be ready to pull the trigger on a vibrant fragile living thing.
Butchering–I have my original mentor in Seattle–Russell Flint at Rain Shadow Meats (I spent a month working in his shop) and then here in NY with Marlow and Daughters and butcher Andrew Dorsey in Brooklyn. Butchering is really dissection–and I have always had a deep interest in human anatomy. It is also a highly developed skill–how to use a knife properly, carving with or around the joints and bones and knowing what customers will purchase as meat. The most powerful thing that struck me about butchering is how much these animals are like us–especially the larger animals–lamb, pig, cow. Their anatomy is basically the same except for just a few differences–extra vertebrae, different back muscles because of their relationship to gravity, a simpler structure to the forearm and hand. Each animal I worked on felt very different and I got a sense of the individual life behind the carcass. And how young the animals are. I also learned a lot about the retail portion of butchering–what is more flavorful, more tender, aged beef goes through a process of rotting, bone decomposes faster than flesh when cut.
Slaughtering–This was the most difficult part of the research to accomplish. Slaughtering is mostly secretive and highly protected. I was introduced to Janelle and Jerry Stokesberry of Stokesberry farm in Olympia, Washington at a Seattle Farmers Market. They raise cows and pigs, but the bulk of their farm business is chickens who they slaughter almost daily. After a vetting process–where Janelle wanted to be clear about my motives and intentions, and I agreed to take no photographs, they invited me to the farm to assist with the chicken slaughter.
We were slaughtering 33 birds that day–first you have to round them up and put them in the back of a pick up truck. You wear gloves to protect your hands and have to hold their wings in tight to their body so you don’t break a wing. Then the truck pulls up to the small outdoor slaughter shed which is connected to a highly sanitized room where the chickens are gutted and packaged. In the slaughter shed Jerry has me put on rubber boots, a big rubber apron and a rain coat. You have a thinner pair of gloves on and place the chickens upside down in cones. The chickens like the cones (the pressure is relaxing) so they are calm. Then you pull down the neck and cut the jugular with a swipe of a knife. Their blood mostly gets captured in buckets underneath them, but it also flies everywhere as does feces. The passing from life to death takes 30 seconds to a minute. Then you dip the chickens in scalding hot water, put the chickens in a de-featherer (which looks like a cotton candy machine with rubber spikes) and hand them over to Janelle who is in the sanitized room gutting, cleaning and packaging. I join Janelle in that room, dressed in white sanitary clothing–to learn that step of the process. She shows me which organs to save and points out the differences between male and female birds (you find the ovaries). Then they are cleaned with a hose and put in a plastic bag with a label.
After it was all done we toured the farm and I was exhausted.
WD: Last Questions: how did you get the space at Dickson’s Farmstand Meats, and how many people will the space hold?
CA: Dickson’s came about because I was dreaming of the right place for the work to be shown, and I spent a lot of time in the Chelsea Market over the summer. So I started dreaming about Dickson’s. One day I just thought, What the hell!, and walked into the shop and asked to do my show there. I happened to talk to Sarah Levine (one of the butchers) and she got really excited about the idea and talked to Jake the owner about it. Later, when I met with Jake and Sarah, they pretty much agreed to my ideal scenario and they completely understood the ethics of my project firsthand. It was seamless.
20 people maximum in the shop for each show. Tickets are now on sale at carrieahern.com and selling fast…
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